History of Gayo Coffee: From Colonialism to Local Economic Revival

The Beginnings: The Arrival of Dutch Plantations and Colonialism

Gayo Arabica Coffee was first introduced by the Dutch in the early 20th century. In 1908, the colonial government opened a coffee plantation in the Gayo Highlands, especially in the Central Aceh and Bener Meriah regions. This area was chosen because of its ideal natural conditions: an altitude of 1,200–1,700 meters above sea level, fertile volcanic soil, and a cool climate. The Dutch initially planted tea and pepper, but Arabica coffee eventually became the main commodity. In 1918, the first coffee plantation covering 100 hectares was established in Belang Gele (now Bebesen District, Central Aceh). The Gayo community then learned cultivation techniques from the Dutch and began opening community coffee plantations in 1925–1930.

Independence Period and Conflict Challenges
After Indonesia's independence, Gayo coffee became the backbone of the community's economy. In 1972, Central Aceh was recorded as the largest coffee producer in Aceh with a plantation area of ​​19,962 hectares1. However, the armed conflict in Aceh (1976–2005) disrupted production. Thousands of hectares of plantations were abandoned, and thousands of families lost their livelihoods.

After the Helsinki peace in 2005, coffee plantations began to revive. Distribution routes such as Takengon-Bireuen-Lhoksemauwe-Medan became smooth, encouraging Gayo coffee exports to the global market.

Archaeological Relics
Traces of the past concerning Dutch coffee estates are still observable in Wih Porak Village, Central Aceh. The remains of a colonial coffee drying factory with a processing pond and waterwheel are silent witnesses to the glory of Gayo coffee since the 1900s.

Taste Characteristics: Harmony of Aroma, Acidity, and Thickness
Gayo Arabica Coffee is known for its non-bitter flavor profile, low acidity, and a hint of natural sweetness. Here are the factors that shape its unique flavor:

1. Environmental Influence and Altitude
Elevation: Gayo coffee flourishes at elevations in the range of 1,200 and 1,700 meters above sea level. The greater the height, the richer the resulting taste. For example, coffee from an altitude of 1,500 meters above sea level in Atu Lintang has citrus and ginger aromas, while coffee in Bener Meriah (1,400 meters above sea level) emphasizes the taste of cedar wood and chocolate. 

Volcanic Soil: The mineral content of Andosol and Inceptisol soils in the Gayo Highlands enriches plant nutrients, producing dense, strongly flavored coffee beans.

2. Post-Harvest Process

• Semi Wash (Wet Hull): This method produces coffee with a thick body and a "clean" aftertaste. The coffee beans are peeled while still wet, resulting in an earthy and spicy flavor character.
• Natural Process: Coffee that is dried on its fruit skin (natural) has a fruity taste like grapes (wine coffee), such as in AZA Coffee products.

3. Cupping Score Notes
Gayo Coffee consistently achieves a cupping score of 86-90 from the Specialty Coffee Association of America (SCAA), far above the specialty coffee standard (minimum 80). World coffee experts such as Colin Smith call the taste of Gayo Coffee "smooth, complex, and similar to tropical fruit".

International Quality and Certification
1. Geographical Indication (GI) and Fair Trade
In 2010, Gayo Coffee obtained Geographical Indication certification from the Indonesian Ministry of Law and Human Rights, confirming it as a unique product that can only be produced in Central Aceh, Bener Meriah, and Gayo Lues 1. Fair Trade certification was also achieved in 2010, which ensures farmer welfare and environmental sustainability.

2. Production Standards

1. Defect Point: Premium Gayo coffee has physical defects of ≤8 beans per 100 grams, according to SCAA 2 standards.
2. Superior Varieties: Gayo 1 (Timor Leste) and Gayo 2 (Borbor) are selected for their resistance to disease and high brewing quality.

3. Processing Innovation
Producers such as AZA Coffee develop special variants such as:

• Grape Coffee: Natural fermentation produces a grape flavor without alcohol.
• Honey Process: Processing with fruit mucilage for a natural sweet taste. 

Economic and Cultural Impact
1. Economic Pillars of the Gayo Community
A total of 27,953 families in Central Aceh depend on coffee as their main livelihood. Average production reaches 720 kg/hectare/year, with exports to the US, Europe, and Japan.

2. Cultural Preservation
Gayo coffee transcends mere merchandise status; it embodies customs like Mango Lo (a harvest celebration ritual) and Bejamu (offering coffee to visitors). The younger generation is encouraged to understand this heritage through organic cultivation training by the Aceh Agriculture Service.

3. Challenges and the Future
Global price fluctuations and climate change are threats. However, initiatives such as farmer training, organic certification, and digital marketing are expected to maintain sustainability.

Conclusion: Gayo Coffee on the Global Stage
Gayo Arabica Coffee is a perfect blend of nature, history, and local wisdom. From the volcanic slopes of the Gayo Highlands, these coffee beans have traveled the world, winning the hearts of coffee lovers at Starbucks to specialty coffee shops in Europe. With its extraordinary taste, certified quality, and the story behind every sip, Gayo Coffee is more than just a drink—it is a heritage worth preserving.

References:

• Gayo Coffee Wikipedia
• Characteristic Analysis by NESCAFÉ
• AZA Coffee Production Data
• Bumi Boga Laksmi Report
• Coffee Expert Interview at ANTARA News

Bagikan Artikel ini